Lisbon, Portugal, My birthday week

[hill roberts]

It wasn't planned at all. One day, while having breakfast, I mentioned to my husband about how I quite enjoyed driving in England and Scotland because of the motorways. I must admit to some immodesty when I say that I am actually a very good driver, whether it's city-driving or  motorway-driving. My husband has stopped driving for a good ten years after making a decision not to renew his driving licence in the UK. Anyway, when I mentioned it to him that I fancied driving to Lisbon instead of flying, he said nothing and showed no emotion, being his typical British response. The truth of the matter is, a week before that Lisbon decision, I was already checking the internet for cheap hotels in Geneva. To my horror, even in the autumn, hotels were fully booked and very expensive! Sure, cheap flights abound and this is where Easyjet comes in. I checked and there were flights selling for less than £30/per person. I then began checking the flight dates to some cheaper hotels---the sad thing was, the cheap flight dates and hotel bookings didn't coincide! Let's say, three days in a hotel and the cheap flights allowed for five days' before departure, or vice versa, hence, my dilemma. When I mentioned it to my husband, he seemed rather pleased! Why? We were in the UK for over a month and he was still recuperating from his holidays. Here I was making another journey, which to him, was unacceptable. Still, I persevered.

Anyway, back to my Lisbon plans. Portugal is a country bordering Spain. I know Portugal well since back in the 80's we'd go there by car and Algarve would be the place to spend a nice holiday. In fact, going to Portugal was cheap in those days aside from the fact that one can buy vintage wines cheaply. In one of our travels there, the car broke down and had to be towed all the way to Lisbon. I must admit to some trepidation whenmy husband and I got in that towing truck from the Algarve to Lisbon for two reasons: the trek was dangerous. In those days, Portugal wasn't a member of the European Union so their road network was very poor and decrepid. The lorry driver was nice but didn't speak a word of English so we had to make do with sign language for six hours! Still, when we got to Lisbon, we were pleasantly surprised at how vibrant the city was.

Fast forward to 19th October>>> the drive to Portugal was seamless. There was no ferry to cross the other side of the river. The bridge that was built to link Spain and Portugal soon after these two countries joined the EU was very well built and planned for long-term use. It was a great feeling to be crossing into another country without borders, without customs without the presence of police.

But, as one would expect, driving has its disadvantages, too, especially when a navigator, i.e., your passenger leaves it too late to tell the driver which way to turn! Anyway, we got to Faro--the first stop to Algarve (this is the equivalent of Spain's Costa del Sol,  a cluster of resort towns, where millions of European tourists flock each year). I missed my turning to main Faro and drove the backstreets and suburbs before reaching Faro proper, an ancient fishing town which is now prosperous. We looked for a  hotel and found a familiar name. When I asked the reception if it was the same hotel but with an old edifice, she said yes, but they had to demolish the old building since it was already crumbling. This was the same hotel we stayed 28 years ago and I had fond memories of it because of its ambience. One could smell ancient history! Anyway, we booked for two nights and quite enjoyed the Old Town, a sedentary, crumbling, cobbled area where one can enjoy sipping a nice hot cup of tea or coffee. (Unedited, Part 2 follows)

[hill roberts]

Part 2

It was a great first day for me: there were no hitches, the road network was fabulous and the car behaved. Why shouldn't it be when it's only over a year old. Still, I love this little car: it's so reliable, cheap to run, and less fuel consumption. Above all, it moved like a real senorita on the motorways. At least, that's how I felt for the car. We left Faro,  Algarve's main resort town just after noon. We had a sumptuous breakfast of bacon, cereals, egg omelets, coffee/tea and a some croissants and typical Portuguese bread. It was part of the hotel bill so it was a good arrangement. We loaded our stuff--one suitcase, anoraks, and a hand luggage after we had breakfast in the car.  You see, it pays to travel light, whether you're flying or driving. There's nothing worse than taking too many clothes and shoes and you don't get the chance to wear them anyway. As for shoes, if you're travelling in Europe,  proper walking, sensible shoes are always a requirement since cobbled surface is common. Besides, why wear silly shoes when you  can enjoy the sights and sounds without being uncomfortable?

This time, we left Faro without any mistakes. My navigator and partner in crime, John, was very attentive and this time, he made sure he prompted me long before the turning points/road signs  could be found. I was more than pleased since we had a good breakfast, a vital part of a  journey.  I recommend strong coffee instead of tea when driving long-haul since coffee makes you alert while tea soothes you and even makes you sleepy. I had four medium size cups---the Portuguese, like the Spanish, make one of the best coffee in Europe. Forget about the Italians boasting that they make the best coffee. It's a lie, hahaha. Anyway, leaving Faro was a relief since we decided not to make stops in other Algarve towns like Portimao and Villamora, two popular places for northern Europeans where the British rule. We skipped Algarve for many reasons: too many tourists already, we've been there many times and the cost of staying in another hotel, dragging our stuff with us. In short, a needless hassle when we could drive straight to Lisbon.

My husband and I made sure that the car was always filled with petrol each time we stopped for a meal, a drink or as we say over here, "loo time".  Petrol in Portugal is a lot more expensive (something we didn't know about) and as you drive along the motorways, there's  hardly a service station unlike in the UK where Services abound.  The countryside seemed desolate but that's because when the motorways were built between Spain and Portugal, they had to cut through valleys, rivers, streams, mountains and hills. Still, these two countries have made an excellent job of the road network and for Europeans living in these countries, has made travelling a worthwhile effort.

When "nature" calls, this is when driving becomes an inconvenience, especially when you are right smack on the motorway and there's nothing to see but greenery, barren open fields and olive groves. Still, after driving sixty  kilometers, we found our first petrol station and there we filled our car and stomachs before moving on. (unedited, Part 3 continues)

[hill roberts]

Part 3

My husband and I were surprisingly quiet in the car. He knew that the long drive ahead was going to be straightforward and his navigational skills were not needed for the time being. I gave myself the enormous task of driving the length and breadth of two countries and I wasn't going to feel sorry for myself after having made a huge decision to do it. I mean, who else is going to substitute for me when my husband has given up driving for ten years? Three more tolls and more  euros to shell out. John was getting annoyed with the toll fees we had to pay. I think this was his biggest complaint! I must admit we had some shouting matches in the car too but I don't need to explain it here, hahaha.

My tired eyes were getting bleary. "We're nearly there." John said quietly. "Yes, another mile and it's back to civilisation!" I told him while putting my foot down for some speed. The receding hills gave way to a  fabulous view of the historical bridge  with some factories and houses with red roofs lining the hills and valleys. At last! I gasped with some excitement. Before I knew it, I was on the red, majestic suspension bridge, a 3.2 km stretch, rather narrow and bumpy because of a special metal surface they put over a long period. Still, it was quite an experience. I mean, is there another Filipino woman who has driven this far and straight  through this great bridge into Lisbon? I think not. I told myself with some strange satisfaction. Switching lanes wasn't advisable since we needed to find the signs and staying in the inside lane was the best option for drivers unfamiliar with the city.

Marques de Pombal was the city centre we were told to look for, if ever we got lost. We didn't. Driving through the modern part of Lisbon was OK. I was concentrating too much on the traffic ahead  and the huge roundabout with a big monument right in the middle of the business district which was my main landmark if I ever got lost.  The whole avenue of the city centre is treelined, in fact, Lisbon is very leafy and pleasant. The modern part of Lisbon was only built in the 80's but I wasn't keen to walk around that part of the city. But back to my driving where parking was difficult. We stopped for more directions and where we could find a hotel. The Portuguese we asked didn't speak English so we had to make do with sign language and broken Spanish words since they do understand some Spanish words. Anyway, as I drove away, I took the wrong turn and found myself too far away from the city centre and into a maze of hilly cobbled streets. For three hours, I drove around the old, hilly parts of Lisbon where trams ply and where I got stuck behind them. (unedited, Part 4 and final part continues)

[hill roberts]

Final Part

I was tired but remained patient. Yes, I blamed John for insisting on leaving the main avenue. Of course, no one was to blame. We were both too tired to remember or think and finding ourselves in a city where the locals didn't speak a word of English was bad enough for those who have driven all day. Still, with true Pinay grit, I carried on driving and passed through one of the ancient neighbourhoods called Chiado and asked for directions. At last! A young Portuguese man came to our rescue. He gave us directions in perfect English and we were so grateful. The Portuguese police were of no use to me since none of them spoke English and I didn't speak Portuguese. "Good luck, Madam!" the young Portuguese added as we said our goodbyes, right in the middle of a cobbled road. The Portuguese, I must admit, are very polite, very patient and very peaceful people. I have come to really like them, just like the reserved French---a misunderstood people---but genuinely warm once you get the hang of their misconstrued snobbishness.

After driving up and down the cobbled hilly ancient town, I managed to find myself in another leafy avenue, thinking it was the same avenue.  I was wrong. I found a layby and parked the car  in front of a seven-storey hotel. A nice, well-dressed young  man adviced us to lock up the car well when he saw us parking it. We thanked him and he gave us a wide, sincere smile. We crossed the road and upon reaching the reception, found the staff ready to tell us that there was no room available--not even for one night. "What?" I asked, exasperated and too tired to raise my voice. "Sorry, Madam. All hotels in Lisbon are full." He said politely. "Why?" "Lisbon is fully booked...in fact, the city's hotels are fully-booked. We have this big delegation of scientists. There is an international convention on science"...My husband and I felt awful. We practically begged to find us a room, to no avail. We left the hotel and got in the car. "There's another hotel over there. Let's try that one." John said. Inside, a hotel male receptionist was speaking on the phone in perfect English. He looked up and motioned us to sit down. John had visions of sleeping in the car. I didn't give up.

When we told him we wanted a room  and that we were so tired after getting lost, he smiled and said, "I'm so sorry. But we are fully-booked." We didn't say anything and just plonked ourselves on the sofa. I said nothing. John said nothing. I was getting rather flustered, not because I was tired, but because John had a stroke and he was just recuperating. After about twenty minutes, the receptionist told us he'd ring another hotel nearby and ask his friend. After speaking to his friend in Portuguese, we could see him nodding. "You are lucky!" He said. He wrote down the hotel's name but we had to go there quickly, otherwise his friend wouldn't reserve the room since there were too many delegates in need of hotel rooms, too. He gave us instructions how to get there. His friend was waiting and was very helpful. He gave us a spectacular view of the city, where  the park and gardens were so green and lush, but he told us in no uncertain terms, "Only one night, Mrs.Roberts." I nodded and thanked  him. Late at night, we went for a walk and had a meal in one of the restaurants nearby. It was a day to remember.

I don't know what possessed me but after looking at a list of hotels, since I couldn't sleep,   rang up a hotel with a funny name called Evidencia Astoria hotel at 7 in the morning, while John was still snoring. The female voice was clear and warm: "Yes, Madam. We have a room. How many nights? I replied , "Just two nights...how much is it?" She gave the price and it was very reasonable, including buffet breakfast. I said, "Make it five nights!" John was too tired and drowsy. He didn't have time to protest when he heard me book the hotel. As luck would have it, the hotel staff were also very kind, very polite and very helpful.  The food in Lisbon was excellent, too. I couldn't ask for more.

While in the city, we did a lot of walking, which is one of the best ways of enjoying  a city.  We also did the hop-on, hop-off tourist bus--the tickets were good for two days---and enjoyed the sights. I must admit the people aren't noisy; motorists don't pop their horns; they stop for pedestrians and above all the people don't rush. The pace is just nice and easy. What surprised me most was the fact that there were no children. I only saw three in total! Lisbon is clean and orderly.

It rained heavily on my birthday but I didn't mind. We had a fabulous day just looking around where no one bothered, begged, or pestered us. That night, we walked to a nearby hotel for my birthday dinner. By then,  I was too tired  to appreciate the food but I plodded on, seeing I was kindly invited by my husband
for a nice meal. It was enough that I made it to Lisbon in one piece. The birthday dinner didn't really matter.

 I hit the motorway once more, after a week, this time with much more confidence, knowing that I didn't need a navigator on our way back to Spain. Lisbon is now etched in my memory. I'd recommend this city to anyone who has plans of visiting Europe. I've been to many European cities but Lisbon is now in my list of favourites. The Portuguese have a lot to do with it. They may be understated but they are certainly a  genuinely proud race. (This is the first time I've written about my European travel. Why? It was a unique experience because I drove all the way to another country for my birthday week although I also drove from England to Scotland and back in July this year.)

 


Obrigado, Lisboa!

The route from Malaga to Lisbon: Malaga, Cadiz, Sevilla, Faro (Portugal), Lisbon; Lisbon, Sevilla, Cadiz, Malaga. Driving towards Lisbon one can find, tunnels, toll roads,  numerous viaducts, olive groves, grapevines, barren fields.

Factfile:

Politics--Portugal is a Parliamentary Republic
Religion: it is secular. Catholicism  though is the main religion. There are other places of worship, including mosques, synagogues, hindu temples, protestant churches, etc
Banknote: Euro (€)
Road traffic: they drive on the right-hand side of the road
Working hours: 40 hours a week
Shopping hours: from 10 a.m. to 11 p.m.